Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Sunday, May 8, 2011

I'm back from a fabulous short break in Pisa, home of beautiful food, beautiful weather and beautiful people!! Totally relaxed and refreshed and ready to start blogging again:)

Need to start dieting again too after eating too many of those lovely pizzas like this funghi porcini one from Friday... ;)


The Pisa Diaries, accompanied by some more gratuitous food photography (!) will be published from Sunday 15th onwards. No time for anything between now and then because....IT'S EUROVISION WEEK!!

Sunday, May 1, 2011

OK so this is my last blog post before I go to Pisa. This blog will be back either next Sunday or Monday at which time I'll be catching up with all the pre-Eurovision excitement!!

See you all soon.

Laura x

Sunday, April 24, 2011


Yes I can finally reveal our next holiday destination....Pisa! This will be our first ever Italian holiday, although it won't be our first time on Italian soil as we took a day trip to Ventimiglia whilst on holiday in Nice back in 2003.

We are really excited about this forthcoming short break and of course The Pisa Diaries will be making an appearance on this blog before the end of May!! Expect lots of gratuitous food photography....

(The above picture is courtesy of Wikipedia)

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Well, I lost some weight. http://europecrazysrandomramblings.blogspot.com/2011/04/goooooooooooooaaaaaaaallllllllll.html

"Get You" is still my favourite Eurovision entry this year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J4-T22p0y4&feature=relmfu

Although I will also be supporting Blue. Supporting my own country's entry at Eurovision is a very unusual and unfamiliar thing to do, but there you go. Tonight BBC1 screened "Eurovision: Your Country Needs Blue" (you see what they did there?) which, although screening the by now prerequisite ESC clips of Fredi & Friends, Jahn Teigen, Nicole & Hugo (where can I get one of those on-trend purple catsuits?) and inevitably, 'Sámiid Ædnan', for once it went beyond the usual BBC 'let's all laugh at Eurovision' stance and actually acknowledged that WE. HAVE. BEEN. GETTING. IT. SOOOOO. WRONG. And you can forget a key change cause you're not getting one. Apart from the usual suspects (Cliff, Lulu and the mighty Bucks Fizz), Radio 1's Scott Mills talked a lot of sense and I got the feeling that, finally, the post-Wogan era is kicking in and maybe, after all these years in the wilderness, Royaume-Uni may finally be getting the concept of 21st century Eurovision. During the show my mum commented on the 'political' voting but I immediately jumped in with my own theory - that the 'new' (as in 1993 & beyond) countries had no previous experience of what is expected from a Eurovision entry therefore have been able to drive the contest in a whole new direction. Anyway the show was well worth watching and if you missed it, check it out on BBC iPlayer at http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b010n381
/Eurovision_Song_Contest_2011_Your_Country_Needs_Blue/


Finally, I'm going on holiday in just over two weeks and I'm sooooo excited! Location to be confirmed in the next few days - news to follow on here very soon. For a while I wasn't sure if I'd be going on holiday or not, but it's looking good to go. Anyway what this means is that this blog will probably not be back to 'normal service' till Eurovision week i.e week commencing 9th May, however I may sneak in a few blog posts over Easter weekend, you never know ;)

Monday, October 4, 2010

Oooooh....bit of a headache this morning - self-inflicted :(

At least it's an uninterrupted night's sleep, which is just as well as it'll be a long time till the next one, thanks to the night flight.


After breakfast we headed out to buy some more last-minute purchases. A couple of days ago we discovered a little shady spot, outside the town hall, next to the local taxi rank so all the taxi drivers hang out there too, staying out of the direct sunlight. We stopped here to drink our water and enjoy the shade. We also spotted the arrival of a wedding party going into the town hall. Lunch at another one of the marina restaurants, where they all compete for business. Things were a bit different today as we took a mid-afternoon break back at the hotel and I snatch some more sleep before doing last-minute packing.

In the early evening we went out for dinner then had our last Turkish coffee of the holiday :( before venturing down Bar Street for one last time, dodging the hard sell. Darkness has fallen by this time so we take in my final view of the coastline and I even dip my toes in the Aegean. It's a distinctive night-time sight, with the castle, the coastline and the catamaran (nightclub) all lit up.



There's also time for one last walk - or should that be running the gauntlet - past the various beachfront restaurants. We then headed back to the hotel and awaited our airport transfer. That, my friends, is another story, which I won't bore you with.... Suffice to say that there was a major c**k-up which almost resulted in us missing our flight home. Happily though, we made it, with literally minutes to spare.

Having been to Turkey for two consecutive summer holidays, you'll have guessed that we're rather keen on the place. And why not? It's got something for everyone: traditional package-holiday appeal for the sun-worshippers; history and culture for those wanting something more from a summer holiday; great food, lively nightlife for people of all ages, where you are always welcomed and included. The hard-sell may always take a bit of getting used to, but the people are always friendly and take a genuine interest in everyone who passes along their way. The best thing about Turkey is that you never forget where you are. Whether it's the sound of the call to prayer, or the ubiquitous Turkish flag flying everywhere, or the Turkish music blasting from a little bar down a side street. You are in Turkey, a different country, a unique culture, and it's just fantastic to be there.

And Bodrum? Go there, you won't regret it. But don't spend your week by the hotel pool! Get out there and discover the place - it's a real town, not a custom-built resort. It's cosmopolitan, lively, and fun. What more could you want?

The day doesn't start so well, as the combination of heat and revellers wakes me at 5.15 am. This. Is. Not. Good. Happily it gets better!

Today, in true Sunday style, is all about taking things at a very slow pace indeed, as the temperature climbs yet again to over 40 degrees. So it's apple tea, and leisurely shopping - I finally get that Mor ve Ötesi CD which I've been promising myself all week (and which hasn't been off my CD player in the last 2 weeks) and the latest Power Turk CD compilation. We also buy souvenirs and postcards and decide to venture outside of town to Bodrum's take on the shopping mall concept - Oasis.

Oasis, which is between Bodrum and nearby Gumbet, is not really like a traditional shopping mall as most of it's in the open air, but luckily there are enough seats and shady spots to cool down in. They also have a very classy food court where we have a very Turkish lunch - pide, Efes, Turkish coffee, and baklava. I didn't take many photos today, and I'm only going to publish one of them here, but it's one that really matters. Baklava!!


We hang out in Oasis for a while before getting a taxi back into town, and inevitably end up at the Mariners cafe where I inevitably have my daily, chilled, fresh orange juice. Lovely.

Before going out in the evening, it's time for faithful travelling companion to have his second Turkish shave of the holiday. Owwww!

We have a lovely meal tonight, just off the beachfront, and then it's time to hit the buzzing nightlife of Bodrum once again. There is one little backstreet, just off Bar Street, which is full of little bars and restaurants and we ended up there again tonight. (sorry I can't remember the name of the street, but if I remember, then I'll publish it!). It may be Sunday night, but every night in Bodrum is like a Friday/Saturday night! In the now classic 'last full night of our holiday' tradition, we both get very merry, stay out very late, and wallow in the deadly combination of live Turkish music and....raki :))))

Today: Greece is the word!

Being based in Bodrum provides you with a very good opportunity to visit another country - Greece. The island of Kos, to be precise.

Having border-crossed on holiday before - from France to Spain, France to Monaco, France to Italy - it feels as if you're just travelling to another town. The Turkey to Greece journey (and back) is something different entirely: you have to go through all the formalities which you expect when leaving the UK to fly to continental Europe, complicated by Turkey's non-EU/visa status. Baggage x-rays, metal detectors, passport checks, visa stamps, the lot. It's not easy. Prepare to queue, in both directions :(

However, Kos Town is just under an hour from Bodrum by express ferry, and the outward journey was a cool and pleasant one, on what was already turning out to be the hottest day of an already very hot holiday.

When you think about it, there aren't too many differences between Turkey and Greece, as we immediately discovered - swap Turkish coffee for Greek coffee...


...and if you're missing the Turkish cats, then there's plenty of Greek ones....


Kos Town has a very pretty seafront, which shares another similarity with Bodrum. There is a castle and marina at one side, and the beach at the other, although is more 'touristy' than Bodrum. Also, we didn't know until we got there, just how popular Kos Town is with Dutch tourists, judging by the number of Dutch bars/restaurants which we spotted on our day in the town.

We decided to throw ourselves into all things Greek today, which meant a lunch of moussaka for faithful travelling companion and chicken souvlaki for me. Sadly no lunch photography this time, but here's a Greek beer to wash it down with.

After lunch, we decided to take a journey on the 'little train' which took us around the coastline and round the back of the town. And in the middle of nowhere, we spotted....a cow!

Five hours in Kos Town can pass pretty quickly, so it wasn't possible to see/do everything in a day - had to miss out on the castle, for example, but there was just enough time to visit the Tree of Hippocrates, where, legend states, the original father of medicine taught his students. We also got a quick peek at the archaeological site of ancient Agora. Now that's what you call ruins!!


It was soon time to head back to Bodrum at 5.00 pm. (Ferry pictured above). If you don't mind all the delays at immigration, I'd recommend the day trip to Kos - or if you're holidaying in Kos, you can take the same trip in the opposite direction, so try a day trip to Bodrum!

After our eventual return to Bodrum, it was time to recharge our batteries before going back out for yet another evening of dining at the water's edge. And where there's a restaurant, there's a cat. Tonight's feline companion stayed with us for an hour and completely melted my heart into a big squishy mess. But she (I think it was a girl) only stayed with us as long as the food was on the table. So much for loyalty! Anyway it's Saturday night, and Bar Street is buzz, buzz, buzzing. Bodrum is lively and great fun for all ages, and there's no age-discrimination as young and old and everyone in-between are made welcome in the bars. We even get asked if we want to go into one of the ultra-trendy discos - there's hope for us yet :)))

Saturday, October 2, 2010



Today was all about exploring the marina side of Bodrum, which starts at the end of Bar Street/Bodrum Castle. It's a more upmarket side of the city, marked by yachts and the distinctive Gulets (Turkish boats) moored all along the seafront, and a number of very nice restaurants and stylish nightclubs.

After a walk along the seafront, we had lunch in one of these very nice Turkish restaurants, where we were mistaken for Belgian tourists (! - a change from the usual Irish/Germans)....oh well, it's time for some gratuitous food photography: chicken, sweet potatoes and the ubiquitous green chilli.


Following lunch, there was one thing on our holiday agenda which we had to do. It's not every day that you get to see one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, so being in Bodrum presents you with the opportunity to see one of them: the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus - the tomb of the ancient ruler Mausolus. The Mausoleum is just a short walk back from the Marina and it was fascinating to get so close to so much ancient history. Many of the Bodrum guidebooks don't give very favourable descriptions of what's left of the Mausoleum, but despite all that I still felt that it's well worth a visit. More background information at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mausoleum_of_Halicarnassus



Tonight brought dinner and more traditional Turkish resort entertainment at one of the beachfront restaurants, where Friday night meant belly dancing/dancing waiters/breakdancers/Michael Jackson....anyone who's been on holiday in Turkey in recent years will be very familiar with this line-up. Yes, Jacko is alive and well, and if you don't believe me...

It was great fun tonight, although we didn't expect to be part of the entertainment :) anyway that's the joys of audience participation in Turkey, and you really don't have a say in the matter!!

Suffice to say it was a challenge to my two left feet to get involved in the Cha Cha Slide/Macarena/Kiss Kiss/Saturday Night dance routines, but a great laugh nonetheless.

Friday night, and Bodrum is buzzing even more than usual. And what a great place to be: although the partying is cut short as we need to get up very early tomorrow....

Sunday, September 26, 2010

So, today it's snowing and a polar bear's just walked past our room window....no only kidding folks, it's the usual - hot hot hot!

After breakfast we book for a trip to Kos on Saturday - here's a good chance to add yet another country to our growing list. More to follow...


Then it's off to a local record shop for the first CD purchases of the week: new CDs by Tarkan, and Emre Aydin - I wasn't really familiar with the latter until I heard his new song on Power Turk TV - "Alıştım Susmaya" and was impressed enough to buy his latest album. Reviews of both albums to follow on here, eventually....

Another day of hanging out in town. The high temperatures dictate just how far you can walk or how much you can do, but there's nothing wrong with hanging out in town. Earlier in the week I thought there was less of the hard sell than last year, but as I previously said, first impressions can be wrong! It's great fun trying to dodge the power-selling which goes on.

You always get more when you bargained for when shopping in Turkey....and today was no different. Faithful travelling companion bought a Turkish national team football top - and I got a marriage proposal from the young man selling it! Sadly I had to decline as I told him I couldn't move to Turkey because the weather was too hot ;)

One of the things you must do if you go to Turkey on holiday is: Turkish Night! These evenings usually consist of food, drink, folk dancing - talking of which....




...traditional music, novelty/specialist acts and of course the highlight of the evening - belly dancing. Not only female belly dancers - but a male one too! You don’t believe me? Here’s a picture of a male belly dancer. Sorry it’s a bit blurry, but you get the idea, and it’s very hard to take a photograph when all that...belly dancing is going on.  
 

Saturday, September 25, 2010

There's a pattern developing here already: hot weather, hotter weather, even hotter weather etc etc. But there is a lot to be said for the power of factor 50+ sun protection, which manages to fight both excessive sun damage and repeated plays of "We No Speak Americano" at the pool bar. It's all good.


And despite being woken by the 5.45 am call to prayer, I'm confident enough that the quality of last nght's sleep was sufficient to get me through the next 24 hours. That and "Alors On Danse" on repeat in my brain. After breakfast we book for Turkish Night, which is always a must if you are interested in the culture of the country you're visiting, and after a mid-morning stroll down Bar Street we arrive once again at the marina, where it's time for a daily late-morning holiday ritual for us: Turkish apple tea, which is indeed still a very wonderful thing. (British readers can sample the experience as Turkish Apple is one of the many flavours sold in Whittards: http://www.whittard.co.uk/)

Above: the Bodrum Mariners' Cafe at the Marina: popular with locals and...us.

Lunch at one of the many restaurants around the marina area, after which the early part of the afternoon is mainly spent hanging out in town. The longer you spend in any Turkish resort, the more shopkeepers/waiters remember you :O

But the main item on our late afternoon agenda is yet another trip to the hamam - in other words, the Turkish bath. After quite a long journey, the hamam itself is a big hot circular marble room in which we are left to sweat, and sweat, and sweat, maybe for a bit too long until it becomes uncomfortable. After a brief jacuzzi interlude it's back to the hamam where we are all vigorously scrubbed and soap-massaged. If we're being honest, last year's Turkish bath was probably better than this year's, but it's an experience which I'd always recommend if you ever take a trip to Turkey.

After the hamam trip, it was time for that other must-have on a Turkish holiday: faithful travelling companion's Turkish shave. In which a rather good-looking young Turkish man removes facial hair with a large razor. At the time of the shave, "Prayin'" by Plan B was the song playing on the radio, and no, the irony was not lost on me. Happily, faithful travelling companion emerged smoother and unharmed. Job done!!

Dinner tonight at yet another one of those restaurants where we dine at the water's edge. Very nice! One thing I must mention about Bodrum is the abundance of cats, there are hundreds of them, and they will prowl around the restaurants and be your best-friend-forever if there is any possibility of some leftovers from your plate. I've never really been a cat lover, never had a pet cat or anything, but I've been getting just a little broody here. As if it's not enough having a town full of gorgeous men and beautiful women, even the cats are gorgeous, and I want to take one home with me!!

We end our evening in fine style on (where else but) Bar Street, where we take in some live Turkish music in a bar and are probably the only non-Turkish people in the audience. It's such a lively and enjoyable experience. All those people who chose to stay at the pool bar, listening to "We No Speak Americano" on repeat are definitely missing out.....

It's hard to feel the magic after only two hours sleep, the unavailability of hot water in the mornings, an uninspiring breakfast, and the traumatic sight of some sunbathers (too horrific to mention here!)

But the sun is shining, and we're centrally located in Bodrum, so let's explore. "Bar Street" is the main street in Bodrum - actually a mix of two streets which run from the beachfront to the marina - and is a mixture of bars, restaurants, clothes shops, souvenir shops and the legendary 'genuine fakes' although there are less immediate bargains to be had here than in İçmeler - none of that "two for a tenner" stuff here! On our first day it felt like there was less of the 'hard sell'...first impressions can be deceptive though!

The immediate and lasting impression is of a cosmopolitan resort, attracting tourists from many countries and also from Turkey itself. That's probably the first difference I notice between Bodrum and İçmeler, which seemed to attract more British tourists. The other difference I notice is that Bodrum is a real, working town and not just a holiday resort.

Let's stop for a Turkish coffee, shall we? ;)

Wherever you are in Turkey, you'll never forget where you are. Turkey has a uniqueness which you just don't get anywhere else. None of this "British fish and chip shop" rubbish. And it has pide - Turkey's own version of pizza. Ooh....it's time for lunch!


After lunch we do some more exploring, and walk to the other end of the beachfront, as far as the famous Halikarnas open-air nightclub (tagline: "You can not say you've been in Bodrum if you haven't been to Halikarnas"), take a back-street wander and then back via the many beachfront restaurants all competing for trade. Aah yes....the hard sell. But in this heat (a boiling 33 degrees) you need to stop for a cool drink in the afternoon.


Imagine the scene: you're sitting at a beachfront cafe-bar and a guy who is the double of Eddie Razaz is sitting at a nearby table...it suddenly becomes very hard to concentrate on the other sights of Bodrum :) anyway, dear readers, I just know that you'll be wondering about the eye candy. Well I can reassure you, the eye candy is very, very appealing indeed, and continued to be very appealing over the rest of the week :))) Lots of lovely girls for faithful travelling companion too ;)

On return to the hotel we discovered the Power Turk TV channel - a music channel playing all the latest hits. For a fan of European music like myself, this was like striking gold. We discovered so many new songs and artists thanks to this channel, and it also helped to inform my CD purchases in the coming week.....! Catch up with the latest Turkish top 40 at http://www.powerturk.tv/.

In Bodrum, Bar Street is the place to be, morning, noon and night. There are many restaurants between the beachfront and marina, some of which are quite upmarket, but all of them have one thing in common - you enter the restaurant on Bar Street but you dine at the seashore. Just don't lean over toooo far....oops! Man/woman overboard :))) We had dinner at one of these restaurants tonight - very nice. One particular thing which appeals to me about Turkey is the wide variety of dishes available in restaurants, which cater to all tastes. That is certainly the case in Bodrum - there's something for everyone, although less of the set menus found all over İçmeler.

We round the evening off with a seafront drink - it may only be a Tuesday night, but there's a lively party vibe going on. But not too much partying for us tonight - need to catch up on sleep!!

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

....got back this morning from a fabulous holiday in Turkey, had a brilliant time although the daytime weather was just a bit too hot, so I'm cooling off now! Spent most of the day catching up with the sleep I didn't get thanks to that night flight, and tonight I've been catching up with everything else that I've missed in recent days.

In the great tradition of this blog, my holiday diaries will be published over the weekend, with lots of very nice pictures of beautiful Turkish scenery and equally beautiful Turkish food :)

Anyway, I go away for a week and come back to discover that last year's X Factor winner Joe McElderry has only gone and covered Donkeyboy's "Ambitions", the original version of which has been one of my most loved and most played tracks of this year. I'm pleasantly surprised by this, as it's a pretty decent version and a vast improvement on the usual r'n'b-influenced dross being churned out at the moment. I recently read that he's been working with Darin too - could Joe become the nearest thing that we have to a Swedish boy-pop star? I hope so!

What else did I miss? Well, Lena Philipsson got married, Reinfeldt got re-elected in Sweden, and 5% of the Swedish voting public are very sick, sad people indeed.

I'm off to bed (again) now for tonight's sleep. Goodnight!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Regular readers of this blog will know that I haven't been posting as much on here, and unfortunately that's set to continue for a little while so please bear with me. It's a very, very busy time at the moment - having a new central heating system installed, and then I'm off on holiday!

Yes! It's that time again...on Monday I'll be heading off to Turkey - along with faithful travelling companion - for our second annual summer holiday there. Can't believe it's been a year since our first visit to Turkey and we hope that this holiday will be as fun and memorable as that last one. Hopefully I'll be home with some new Turkish music among my many purchases!

All things being well, this blog should return on the evening of 21st September. If there's any important news I've missed when I'm away (I won't be near the internet during that week) please get in touch and leave your comments and I'll get back to you on my return.

This blog will be back in action for the last week of September but will then be taking a break for most of the month of October - although there will be the occasional post, but there's lots of things I'll need to catch up on outside of blog-land so I've made the decision to have another blog break. (I will still be reading all my favourite blogs though!)

See you later in September......!

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

You probably didn't expect this one so soon, but we've decided to return to Turkey for our summer holiday in four weeks' time. After some intensive searching and consideration given to various alternatives, we finally settled on Turkey again, as we loved it so much last year. And after a couple of hiccups (notably the possibility of airport strikes, which thankfully have now been averted) we finally got booked up tonight!!

We are going to a different place this time - Bodrum - but I'm sure the famous Turkish hospitality will be overflowing from the beginning to the end of our holiday :) of course there will be a full report to follow!

Sunday, August 1, 2010





Ever felt like a tourist in your own country?

I might be a bit of an expert on European travel by now, but when it comes to my own country that's another thing entirely. So it's about time I checked out some new places...!

Yesterday, faithful travelling companion and myself "took the high road" and headed for Balloch, a village on the south banks of Loch Lomond.

Of course the main obstacle stopping you from discovering this country will always be our horrible, wet weather but if you wait for a dry day you'll probably wait forever. So, umbrellas at the ready, we arrived in a wet (but mild) Balloch, a nice little place with more than enough dining options but not much else really. (Although there is a shopping centre called Loch Lomond Shores, but that's for another visit).

The prime draw here is of course Loch Lomond itself, and we took the opportunity to take a one hour cruise which takes you as far as Inchmurrin (the largest island on the loch) and then back. It was all very lovely and scenic and serene, which was just what I needed after a turbulent week! We also took a little stroll through a woodland trail down to the edge of the loch, where we dipped our toes in the water.

The rain went off, the sun came out later on, but by that time we had to make our way back for our connections home. As you know, my definition of the great outdoors is usually the bit between the restaurant and the shopping mall, so this was a nice new experience for us. We really enjoyed our day out, and would like to do something similar again in the future!

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Yes, it's that Slovakian gastronomic treat bryndza halusky.....

And so to the last full day in the "Brat" as we like to call it....

It's like Groundhog Day as we started the day in the Park Inn's very nice Il Gusto restaurant, having buffet breakfast and staring out at the clouds and light rain.

I'd really recommend the Park Inn (above) for a stay in Bratislava, it's a reasonably priced hotel in a city full of rather expensive hotels - well situated, overlooking the Danube and just minutes from the old town.

Anyway the clouds began to disappear and it began to warm up during our relaxing stroll up and around the other end of the Old Town. Lunch in yet another basement cellar restaurant, and then we headed back to the hotel early to drop off our purchases before heading out again to explore Bratislava Castle.

Faithful travelling companion bought a bottle of Kofola, which is Slovakia's answer to Coca-Cola or Pepsi. With some trepidation I had a sip, although let's just say that it's an acquired taste and I didn't invest in my own bottle :)



Bratislava really came alive today when the sun came out - the once-empty pavement cafes filled up with locals and tourists. And the weather stayed warm for the rest of the day.


You'll know already that Bratislava Castle sits up on a hill, which means climbing.....climbing.....climbing....just what someone like me with my dodgy knees and bad back needs, yet I managed it ok. It must be that Slovak air. Then climbed up various sets of stairs (I counted approximately 200 stairs) and each level brought a better view than the last. (The above picture is mid-level) The Slovak Food Festival was on today in the castle grounds. We don't go up to the very top level of the castle though - that's enough stairs for now! After taking in all the fabulous views, we headed back down, checking out the city wall behind the cathedral, and walked down to the main square to resolve some unfinished business.

Having missed out on the Austrian coffee house experience, Bratislava provided a very acceptable substitute: Kaffee Mayer. A little piece of Austria in the centre of Bratislava. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.




After coffee and some final souvenir shopping (a fabulous necklace and two bracelets for 7 euros - bargain!) we headed back to get ready for our last night out...another night, another basement restaurant, another big portion and another 3lbs gained ha ha!!

For an established stag-weekend destination I feared the worst about Bratislava on a Friday night. But we needn't have worried. Everyone's out at the bars having fun and drinking copious amounts of beer (quelle surprise..!) but there are no signs of any trouble. Needless to say that after the bar-hopping and beer-sampling we were both a bit merry ourselves - and stayed out till 2am!! A very enjoyable night, to end a very enjoyable holiday.

We went home on Saturday, by which time the heatwave was in full swing. But it didn't matter. For Bratislava is a lovely city in all weathers, and I'd really recommend it as an interesting and affordable short-break destination.

Monday, June 7, 2010

Some business to see to first: we headed off to book tickets for a couple of trips on the Danube: this afternoon's trip to Devin Castle, and tomorrow's outing on the Twin City Liner to Vienna. The sun briefly shone before the more familiar clouds descended later this morning. But Bratislava is beautiful in all weathers, and one of its best-known buildings is St Martin's Cathedral, pictured above. This morning we retraced our steps through the old town, bought some souvenirs, and I spotted possibly one of the most gorgeous men I have ever seen - think a 10 times more gorgeous version of Bret from Flight of the Conchords :))) anyway our thoughts soon turned to lunch which involved a variation on bryndza halusky, only with fried onions rather than bacon.

It wasn't long before we were heading off up the Danube to Devin Castle, one of the most significant buildings in Slovak history, dating back to the 8th century. Its position on the Slovak-Austrian border gave it strategic historical significance, and in more recent times the confluence of the Danube and the Moravia rivers formed the Iron Curtain.

After we walked off our lunch on a very high climb, we arrived at the castle ruins in what felt like a Force 10 gale. It may have been freezing cold, but I was so overwhelmed by the surroundings that frostite didn't matter so much :)) The castle overlooks some very picturesque views of the Slovakian and Austrian countryside....

...and here's a part of Devin Castle.
Eventually we had to leave and make our way back down to the bottom of the hill. As we are both fascinated by recent history, we vistied this monument which commemorated all those who had been shot and killed when attempting to cross the river to Austria during the years of Communist rule. (The one thing which has surprised me during our Bratislava trip is that there is very little commemoration or acknowledgement of that era, unlike in Prague or Riga which both have museums dedicated to the subject).
It's a pleasant trip back down the (not blue) Danube back to Bratislava. There's not really much scenery along the way, apart from various little fishing huts. But then you approach the city and you get this view of Bratislava Castle.

Tonight we had dinner at an Argentinian restaurant. Bratislava has such a cosmopolitan choice of eateries. And afterwards we end up at a bar which is full of students and sells bargain-priced beer, and we feel very old!! We have an early night, as there's the small matter of a day trip to another country tomorrow.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Quickly discovered that our hotel room telly (nice flat screen by the way!) has got MTV Germany, so that's the viewing sorted for the rest of the week. First of many screenings of Lena Meyer-Landrut's "Satellite", which would eventually become our holiday anthem, and that was even before a certain song contest of course!



After breakfast we walk down the riverside. Let's get one thing straight: despite what that Strauss bloke says, the Danube is not blue. It's more greeny-brown.

There are a lot of river cruise boats moored at the riverside, and just like the Rhine, the Danube is very much a working river with container boats going up and down all day, along with the boat trips and the hydrofoil to Vienna.

One thing I really love about European cities is squares. Big squares, little squares, I love them all. Bratislava has two, although one of them is actually more of a street than a square: and at the far end there is the Slovak National Theatre, which is such an architectural gem that it stopped me in my tracks. Although they should have ditched that poster at the front which totally spoiled the look. (No offence to Canada)



We continued exploring, stopping off for lunch in the old town at the Presburg restaurant for our first Slovak speciality - the legendary bryndza halusky - potato dumplings smeared in sheep's cheese and topped with bacon. Which is extremely filling and Accompanied, not for the first time, by a beer. Like its neighbouring Czech capital Prague, Bratislava is beer-central. I'm not a beer drinker, but when in Rome (OK, Bratislava then!) it has to be done. I liked this restaurant, because they were playing Slovak music (which I know nothing about) in the background - unlike everywhere else, which has the usual diet of Black Eyed Peas, Taio Cruz and Lady GaGa....

After lunch we go in search of shopping, and find what feels like the world's biggest Tesco, which is so big it's actually its own shopping mall called My Bratislava. Can 'My Rubbishy Small Town' please have one of these???

The main square (pictured below) is called Hlavne Namestie, and like the rest of the city it's small but perfectly formed, and has a number of souvenir stalls which I returned to later in the week to buy some lovely jewellery. We stopped off at 4.00 for coffee at Cafe Grande (the yellow building in the middle of the picture). Throughout the afternoon there was intermittent rain, but not as heavy as last night's downpour.



Although there may not be an obvious 'attraction' in Bratislava, it's the little things which made it special. Like this for example, which shows off the fun side of the city. It's a man peeking out of a manhole, which appears on a lot of the city's souvenirs and it's photographed by everyone who visits Bratislava. It may not be such a welcoming sight if you're staggering along the street late at night after a few beers - watch your step - oooooh! Whoops = too late :D


Being the capital of Slovakia, there are lots of embassies scattered across this compact little city and I had a lot of fun pointing them out. The Austrian embassy was ripe for a photo opportunity, as this was also the place where the 6 year old Mozart played a gig back in the day.


Dinner at the Hacienda Mexicana restaurant (guess what kind of cuisine....). A brief word about the Slovak obsession with food-weights: every menu has the weight of the portion, but even the smallest portion is still too big and difficult to finish! Why are the Slovakian people so slim if they eat all those big dinners?

I did mention that Bratislava was a beautiful city: well it's not just the buildings I'm talking about. For they have a population which is very easy on the eye. Beautiful guys, beautiful girls. Faithful travelling companion even mentioned that his favourite eye-candy city, Riga, is being given a serious run for its money. As far as the male population goes, the one thing I've already noticed is that they have incredibly beautiful dark eyes, and are incredibly attractive even if not always obviously 'good-looking'.

After dinner, we went in search of, well, beer. For research purposes you understand....!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Or, the holiday that almost wasn't.

The ash cloud which had drifted all over European airspace following the Icelandic volcanic eruption a few weeks ago, causing thousands of flights to be cancelled, made its return to British airspace on the Saturday before our holiday. By Sunday, almost all British airports were closed, and many remained closed on Monday morning....
I woke on Monday with trepidation and feeling a mixture of angry and downhearted, getting ready and making final preparations with a 'going through the motions' feeling. As we began the first part of our journey (by train) we still didn't know if the holiday would be on or not.

Happily, the good news came at 1.00 pm - the airport was open, and our holiday was on - although we couldn't relax until the flight was airborne!

Surprisingly, the weather at home prior to our departure was beginning to resemble 'summer'...the same couldn't be said on our arrival at Bratislava Airport, where torrential rain was battering down and the temperature was much cooler. Already cursing myself for not packing warm enough clothes, although my trusty outdoor jacket was in the suitcase - I learned my lesson from Dusseldorf last spring, where heavy rain and a light jacket weren't a good combination :(

Even with the rain falling, the magic had begun. On our way into Bratislava we crossed the Danube, over the New Bridge (Novy Most) which is a very distinctive structure topped by the 'UFO' restaurant, and were immediately faced with the breathtaking view of a beautifully lit Bratislava Castle to the left, and the old town to the right.

After checking in at our very centrally located hotel, we headed out in search of dinner, although it was getting late. We headed over to the Old Town, which like everywhere else in the world on a wet Monday night, was pretty deserted. Or to be specific, pretty and deserted. For it became apparent very very quickly that Bratislava is a very beautiful place, even on a wet, empty Monday night. And if you don't believe me.....


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